Want to purchase some Japanese brushes but don’t know where to start? You’ve come to the right place, today we’re talking eye brush basics! I’ve broken it down to 6(ish) brush shapes so you can customise your own ‘eye brush kit’ 🙂

If you’re new to high end or Japanese brushes, you might wanna read the Why Pay More For Makeup Brushes post.

NB: Brush preferences are largely dependant on eye shape and I’ll try to cover the popular options with emphasis on my favourites (which tend to be Japanese made, hence the title). I’ve also listed some more affordable/widely available options that might not be my first pick, but not everyone wants to order online or shell out the big bucks and I get that 🙂 In chronological order or rather, the order in which I would use them…

1. Large Tapered Brush

A large, fluffy domed brush that is often used for a transition shade above the socket (refer to eye diagram below) and blending edges between steps. The large crease brush is often overlooked but is crucial (in my opinion) for attaining a perfect gradient, especially if you’re going for a complex or smokey look.

Some favourites: Hakuhodo J5522, Wayne Goss 03, Suqqu Eyeshadow L, Hakuhodo G5522, Rae Morris 7.5 Deluxe Round Shader

Widely Available Options: Mac 224

2. Medium Tapered Brush

The MAC 217 of the brush world; ideal for everyday, stock-standard socket shading. Typically a bit smaller and denser than the large crease brush – if you have smaller eyes, you might be able to skip the large option and simply go for two medium tapered brushes (one for application of colour and another to blend).

Some Favourites: Wayne Goss 06, Hakuhodo J142, Hakuhodo J5523, Chikuhodo GSN 10, Tom Ford 13, Charlotte Tilbury Eye Blender (not as dense as previous listed)

Widely Available Options: Mac 217 (one old, one new), Zoeva 227

3. Small Tapered Brush

The small crease brush is ideal for precision shading in the outer V area or if you’re seeking a soft cut crease effect. Also handy for gentle shading across the lower lash line. Note that some are more pointed and others more rounded, a matter of preference.

Some Favourites: Rae Morris 8 Medium Point Shader, Hakuhodo J146, Wayne Goss 04

Widely Available Options: Zoeva 224, Mac 226 (apparently discontinued, soz!)

4. Flat Shader Brush

Dense, flat brushes are used to pack eyeshadow or pigment onto the mobile lid. For me, softness is not as important here because typically, you’d be using a patting motion as opposed to a buffing motion. In a pinch, the point can be used for lower lash line shading.

NB: In this category, I actually favour the MAC 239 over the Japanese options as it’s stiffer.

Some Favourites: Hakuhodo J004G, Hakuhodo J242G, Rae Morris Lash Line Smudger 12

Widely Available Options: MAC 239, Zoeva 234, Bare Minerals Wet/Dry Eyeshadow Brush

Dat diagram doe…

A lovely commenter pointed out that an eye diagram may be a helpful tool for this post. I gave it my best shot…

An oversimplified explanation (use your brushes in whatever area you see fit!) but a visual is always nice 🙂

5. Pointed Pencil Brush

Handy for heavier lower lash line shading (using a back and forth buffing motion), diffusing eyeliner or even tear duct highlight placement. Softness is absolutely crucial here, because the lash line is very delicate and watery eyes ruin everything.

Some Favourites: Hakuhodo G5526, Chikuhodo T8, Hakuhodo Kokutan Eyeshadow T, Chikuhodo Z10 (not pictured, where is that cheeky bugger?!)

Widely Available Options: Mac 219, Sigma Pencil E30

6. Eye Liner Brushes

I find that this is the category where preferences vary so vastly that you really have to investigate via your own trial and error. From a broad perspective, eyeliner brushes can be categorised into three basic shapes: fine liner, smoky liner and angled.

For gel liners, I tend to opt for fine liner brushes…

Some Favourites: Rae Morris Deluxe Eyeliner 13, Rae Morris Precision Eyeliner 14, Hakuhodo B007

Widely Available Options: Most brands make fine liner brushes

If I’m using ‘Karima’s Easiest Winged Liner’ technique and smudging pencil liner into a wing, I’ll use an angled or smoky liner brush (the latter being less sharp and thicker in profile which provides a more diffused effect). I would classify the first two as smoky liner brushes, the final four are standard angled brushes (which many also use for the brows).

Some Favourites: SUQQU Eyeliner D, Smith 302, Hakuhodo J163H

Widely Available Options: MAC 263, Anastasia Beverly Hills 7, Zoeva 317

7. Miscellaneous Favourites

These brushes don’t necessarily fit the above categories but I love them all the same.

Hakuhodo J521 D1 or Wayne Goss 08: Teeny tiny push brushes. Perfect for tightlining the upper lash line with cake or gel eyeliner. Also handy for creating very fine eyeliner across the lash line. Hakuhodo J521-D1 can be purchased here, Wayne Goss 08 here.

Make Up Store 112 Smudge Brush: A favourite for pushing eyeshadow onto the lower lash line – uber soft! I think it has been discontinued, please let me know if you know of a dupe!

Synthetic Crease Brushes: Not Japanese made but a must-have for blending cream eyeshadows. I actually favour more affordable brands here, Ecotools synthetics are the bomb! Some other favourites: Real Techniques Base Shadow Brush (sold as part of a kit UGH), It Cosmetics All Over Shadow Smudger, Zoeva 227, Ecotools Highlighting Brush (part of this set).

So with these… 10ish brushes, I could create any complex eye look. If you favour simple shading, you may only use two or three shapes so feel free to pick and choose. If you’re not keen on selecting individual brushes and would prefer a ready-made kit, I highly recommend the Wayne Goss Collection Set (reviewed here).

Did you enjoy this post? Shall we progress to a Face Brush Starter Kit? Let me know in the comments and leave any questions down there, too 🙂

xxkarima

Disclaimer: Some of the brushes mentioned have been sent for consideration, I couldn’t even tell you which because I don’t keep no spreadsheet. This post is not sponsored, some links are affiliate links and many are not.