Reviewing a cult product today – the Dermablend Corrective Fluid and Corrective Stick. Many of you have asked me to compare the Dermablend offerings to the Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer, as they rank as the highest coverage base products on the market. Comparison at the end, let me first give the verdict on the Dermablend range.
Vichy Dermablend – Corrective Stick
Reminiscent of pan sticks, the Dermblend Stick Corrective offers seriously high coverage. The consistency is of medium emollience; less dry than the Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage but not as emollient as many cream foundations on the market. I’d describe the finish as satin, no visible sheen but emollient enough that it cannot be considered matte.
The shade offering is mediocre – five shades (previously seven) that cater to skintones ~N15 to N40 (if I may hazard a guess). Strangely, the Stick Corrective shades do not perfectly correlate to the corresponding shades in the Fluid Corrective formula. Here are the shades I own…
For reference, I eyeball the Opal Stick at just under NC20 and the Opal Fluid at NW25. Don’t make me guess the others, I’d fail miserably. NB: It appears shade Light is no longer available. I will list other reviews/resources at the end of this post!
In addition to depth discrepancies between the two formulas, you may notice some bizarre peachy tones evident in both products (the only exception being Opal in the Stick formula, which reads a cooler yellow). This is rather perplexing, considering that strong peachy tones do not represent the majority of undertones. Y u do dat, Vichy?
To add more confusion to the mix, Vichy recently redesigned the packaging and the product is now cased in a slim, black tube (but as per the Dermablend website, the formula remains the same).
In my experience, the Stick Corrective is best employed as a spot concealer; it’s not particularly pliable and undoubtedly thick so when used over large portions of the face, it has the tendency to look cakey (for lack of a better word). The swatches on my arm illustrate that the Fluid Corrective seems to sit closer to the skin, where the stick sits ON the skin is a less elegant fashion – keep in mind that my inner arm is perhaps the least textured part of my body!
The peach undertones compelled me to try the Stick under the eyes (mebbe colour correcting properties for purple circles?) but alas, the product creased and settled despite setting with a powder.
Worth noting that the Stick Corrective has an SPF of 30; as I use it sparingly for pin point concealing I cannot attest to flashback but other experiences are welcome! It also contains mineral oil, but let’s not launch into that debate.
Dermablend – Fluid Corrective
A high coverage, fluid formulation with a similar viscosity to stock standard foundation. Although labelled a foundation, I again prefer the Fluid Corrective for spot concealing. In practice, both Stick and Fluid offer a similar amount of coverage but I found that the Fluid had better ‘setting power’, which allows for building of coverage where required. The Stick seems to slip around – I’d go to blend the product and it would blend away entirely!
I also find the Fluid to have superior longevity to the Stick, as it does set on the skin. Once set, the finish can be described as more matte compared to the semi-emollient Stick and I need not powder.
Furthermore, the Fluid is more pliable and thinner in consistency, I perceive that some may have success in using this over larger portions of the face (if adequately blended and sheered out, where applicable). If Dermablend appeals to you because you have significant pigmentation to conceal, I would still recommend the Fluid Corrective over the Stick – the coverage is comparable, the finish more elegant and the application less problematic (in my humble opinion).
My only gripe with the Fluid is the shade range. Thankfully, the peachy tones are not glaringly obvious when the product is used for pinpoint concealing so I can get away with using a miniscule amount of Opal in the Fluid formula. Again, I’ve attempted to use the Fluid for under eye concealing and I didn’t love it; while I didn’t experience creasing, sufficiently sheering it out proved laborious and it would look dry as the day progressed.
The Fluid formula is alcohol free as has an SPF of 35.
Comparison to Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer
Between the two, the Fluid Corrective is definitely closer in formula to the Kevyn Aucoin SSE; the latter being less viscous and slightly creamier. I think the Fluid Corrective may fare better than the SSE on oilier skins and those who struggle with longevity. If you’re prone to flakiness, both emphasise flakes somewhat (albeit moderately, not the worst I’ve encountered HELLO ARMANI MAESTRO).
Overall, I use the Fluid corrective and Kevyn Aucoin interchangeably; neither fit my skintone perfectly (Opal in the former, SX05 or SX07 in the latter) but for pin point concealing, I can make it work.
I think it’s quite clear that I prefer the Fluid Corrective over the Stick Corrective! I rarely mesh well with stick formulas and I do believe that whether you’d prefer the Stick Corrective or the Fluid Corrective depends entirely on preference – look to your favourite facial concealers, are they solid or fluid? That should be a good indication.
By no means was my experience with the Stick disastrous, it’s a cult favourite after all and for many, a game changer. Personally, I found application much too tedious and the outcome relies heavily on the textural condition of my skin on the given day. The Fluid is far more forgiving and you need not be an expert with application. To summarise, if you can find a good shade match in the fluid formula – go for it. If you can find a better match in Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer (an equally miraculous occurrence!) then opt for that, the opacity is similar.
I purchased both products from Ecscentual.
I’ve talked enough, leave me a comment 🙂
Additional resources you may find helpful
Stick Corrective Review courtesy of A Model Recommends
Stick Corrective Swatches, Review & Application Demonstration by the lovely Letz Makeup
Fluid Corrective in action, an amazing acne concealing how-to by Lisa Eldridge